JMJ
In today’s post, we lay out the criteria for assigning costs to the engine rebuild project. Essentially, if I buy a part, tool, or manual for this job that I would not have purchased otherwise, then the cost is charged to the project. Incidental costs, like replacing a worn screwdriver, do not get assigned to the project because I would have needed to make that purchase anyway.
I expect the gray area will be tool purchases that have general use in the shop. For example, a large socket, a dial indicator, or a micrometer are all good things to have, and none are specific to this particular task. The question will be whether I would have bought the tool anyway, engine rebuild or not. If yes, then no charge.
The new manuals and the engine stand will be project costs, but not the original service manual. The cost of the domain and blog are not charged because neither are necessary for rebuilding an engine. The break-even cost will be the total dealer service quote for replacing the engine ($7,242.01) less the estimated labor in that quote ($1,500) leaving $5,742.01 as the cost to beat. We will keep track of expenses against this upper limit budget number. I am confident that we will have a running machine, a better collection of tools, and many useful new skills with budget to spare.
Speaking of manuals, both the Haynes (Editors of Haynes Manuals et al., 2014) and Clymer (Scott, 2005) manuals have arrived. I was up until midnight reading through the Haynes manual that arrived first. When the Clymer book showed up the next day, I was surprised to learn that Clymer is a division of Haynes. I will be very disappointed if I find that I have purchased the same manual under different names. When I searched the web for differences between the two, I landed right in the middle of a 3-way philosophical and religious battle between folks advocating for Haynes, Clymer, or the manufacturer’s service manual (or any combination of the three). I have all three and will consult all three. If any worthy opinions or glaring differences emerge, I will share in a post. Otherwise, I am slowly backing out of the room.
The garage bay is almost ready. I want to add some more lighting, but that can wait for a while. I have scrounged enough material to build the workbench to which the engine stand will be mounted. I told my wife and myself that all that crap, ahem, extra building material, would come in handy some day. Today is that day. I plan a working surface of 30” x 48” at a height of 32 inches.
I hope everyone is having a worthy Holy Week leading up to a blessed Easter.
Howard
Quote of the day: “There is a work around for every ‘special tool’ requirement.” (djl, 2011)
Howard,
Regarding manuals: for the Panhead I have both the original manual from Harley circa 1965 and a Clymer version. The main difference between the two are illustrations versus photos, the photos being used exclusively in the Clymer manual. The other big difference is that the original Harley manual has a “Tools” section that deals strictly with specific tools, jigs, etc. that are used on the Panhead motorcycle; with a corresponding part number that enables me to look up used tools on e-Bay that I need (when I can find them!). Otherwise, the two manuals are very similar, the only difference being early Sixties vernacular versus Eighties
I also have a Harley “Parts” books for both the Panhead and the Sportster. These are basically pages of exploded diagrams with corresponding Harley parts number. I am more reliant on these than the manuals. If Harley publishes one for your motorcycle, I strongly recommend purchasing one.
Ad Majorem Dei Gloriam
Shawn
Hey Shawn,
Thanks for the tip! I will search for a parts book for my bike. Diagrams definitely help.
Howard
Hey! I could have sworn I’ve been to this website before but after
browsing through some of the post I realized it’s new to me.
Nonetheless, I’m definitely delighted I found it and I’ll be book-marking and checking back often!